Finally a black purse

In early 2017 I had made a black purse that I loved.  After going back home for a benefit (whereby I made two other purses for it) I was offered some moola for my black purse.  I knew she really wanted it and would ask me again for it, so I sold it to her.

Well, I finally made a replacement one.

This is a pattern I have developed and still need to tweak a bit.  One of these days I will do a tutorial on it.  It definitely takes a good 6 hours to make it.  I usually try to do all the interfacing and gluing and then leave it for the night and work on it the next day.

This is a regular lambskin and a perforated lambskin with gunmetal hardware.

I forget the fabric line for the interior and I used pretty much all of the 1/2 yard of fabric that I had for it.

I have a zipper on the inside, two interior pockets and an outside pocket on each side (fits a phone).

It also has some feet on the bottom, but I forgot to take pictures of that.  This is on my list to do a pattern and tutorial for it.  One of these days I will get my stuff together on that!

A little bit of sass…

I’m pretty sure this photo explains the little bit of sass…

This is a pretty cute little panel that is up at Rockerbye on pre-order.  This round is full of horses, llamas, some jungle creatures and cute coordinates.   The pre-order starts today at Rockerbye.

The size of the panel here is a child’s panel, and it was a little small for a 12 wide sizing.  I would have opted for a bigger size, but I made it work!  I added some overlays on the front and back and extended the bottom with some split bands.

I made her a pair of straight leg leggings to go with the top.  They will be super comfy to wear, since it is a nice thick ponte with lycra.

I also added some fun roses and leaves to the top to give it that western flair (files in my Google drive folder on the sidebar).

I drafted the top, and just kind of winged the overlays.  They have raw edges, and I did a double line of lightning bolt stitching to attach them.

They have some cute coordinates that go with this print, in addition to some other forest and farm animals. Go check it out if this interests you!

A quick tunic dress

I made this dress before going to a concert a few weeks ago.  It was Apocalyptica plays Metallica, and we took the younguns’ with us.  It was a nice smallish concert hall, and four cellos playing rock is always interesting!  It was a late night, though, so we payed for it on Monday morning.  It was also a suuuuper busy weekend again, and I didn’t have a lot of time to make something.

Then, I wore it for our family pictures and then to work today!

I had purchased some bamboo spandex/jersey from Nature’s Fabrics which is a nice weight and very comfy.  The inside is a little bit brushed.  This color is called “Forest“.  I love it, so I went online I bought more this week (someone take my credit card away!).

I decided to make a Sneha tunic.  The modifications I made were 2″ longer on the skirt, sleeveless and I added a 24″ long cowl to the neckline.  I did a simple rectangle.

This will be good to wear with either tights or leggings and it can transition from summer to winter as a layering piece.

I wore it with some leggings I made a few years back and my cardigan from last fall.

A nice comfy outfit, where I could match up pieces made at different times.  I think I am getting this wardrobe thing down.  I tend to just make my favorite colors, so then I have other things that match it well.

Gathered cowl top

I ordered this bamboo jersey fabric from Nature’s Fabric, and expected it to be more of a true red.  It is a bit of a rusty red (more rusty than I could get the color to show here), so it wasn’t going to work for what I initially intended.  Instead, I though I would make myself a comfy fall tunic/dress.

By the way, I do love the feel of the bamboo jerseys I have ordered from them.  Such a comfy fabric.

The base of the dress is the Sneha tunic from Wardrobe by Me.  I wanted it to have two skirts, which works well with this pattern.  The bodice pattern piece is separate from the skirt pattern piece since there are multiple skirt options for this pattern.

I traced the full skirt piece out and recut one side to have an angle.  I then cut two skirts, and serged them to the bodice so each fabric had the lower edge on each side.  The fabric underneath is a thin black jersey.

Next, I added a cowl with the thin jersey.  These were the basic measurements for it…you cut two of them and serge together at the side seams.  I left the edge unhemmed.

Originally, I was just going to leave it, but it proved to be a bit sloppy.  I decided to gather it at the side seams, so it would lay at the shoulder and then just waterfall down.  You need a pretty thin and drapey knit in order for this to work right.

The jacket I am wearing here, is the Blixen Blazer that I made last spring.  It is such a nice, solid piece.  I am wearing leggings I purchased from CAbi several years ago, but I want to make another pair.  They don’t fit the best at the waist and tend to pull down.  I have to continually pull them up, so I think a me-made replacement is on the list.

The list of “to makes” is pretty long right now, so not sure when I will get to it.  Hopefully soonish!

Jersey shirt for #footballmom

Not one to shy away from fanwear for my kiddos, I happily tested this football jersey top pattern.  The test ended up being dropped due to some fit issues, so unfortunately, no pattern at this point to share.  Maybe in the future she will finish it up, but not sure if that is in the cards.

Still, I love this top, so I’m putting it up. 🙂

I made mine with a black bamboo lycra from Nature’s Fabrics, and a red jersey I purchased locally.

It is super comfy, and pretty quick to put together.  I have tested quite a few v-necklines in the last year, so now I feel like I have gotten them down!   I used the method from the Orange Daisy free top.  She has it nicely detailed in her instructions and it turns out a good finish.

I had to add a graphic, of course, so I drew this one up.  The files are located in a link on the sidebar.  I don’t know how to create more than just the .studio file and .jpg, but the .jpg should be able to be traced for other programs.

Now I’m already to cheer on my son’s team!

Romeo Raglan dress

Another pattern test from Rogue Pattern company.  This one is a loose fitting, wide neckline raglan dress with a handkerchief hem.  It is very comfortable!

Romeo Raglan Dress

I had some focusing issues…excuse the slightly blurry pictures!

I made mine with a stretch French terry fabric that has a nice drape.

I felt like I was wearing my pajamas at work.

I think if you have an actual waistline, it would also work to be belted to give it a bit more structure.  I, however, do not so I will be wearing it like this. 🙂

One thing to note, is that the neckline needs to have a fabric with a good amount of stretch, so it will lay correctly.  It might be best to baste it on first and then serge if it lays correctly.  This is just a problem with wider necklines.  Too little stretch and they get floppy…too much recovery and they stand up.  I did end up lengthening my pattern piece by 2″ on the fold.  I think it would have only needed an extra 1″ on the fold based on this fabrics’ stretch and recovery.  I will probably take it off and do that, but haven’t quite gotten to that yet.

The pattern is being released today for $4 (regular price is $9).  If you are looking for a comfy, loose fitting dress, snatch this one up. 🙂

Brasov top from Itch to Stitch

It was hard to cut into my Carina Nebula brushed poly from Zenith & Quasar fabrics, but I knew that the pattern would fit well.

Brasov from Itch to Stitch

This is the new Brasov top from Itch to Stitch, and I tested it.  This was my first test top, and I didn’t really need to make another.  It all fit well right out of the chute, so I would really recommend it.  It has side pleats on the top layer and two pleats at the shoulder.

It took about 3 hours to make it from putting the pattern together to finishing.  You need to take your time around the pleats to make sure everything lines up well.  The only change I made to the pattern was adding 1″ to my sleeve length (she ended up adding another inch to the pattern, since I still felt it was a little short).

I needed to make a matching skirt (of course!), so I pulled this stretch poly out of my stash.

It is a cushy thick with a sateen on it.  The pattern here is my own draft, and is a 4 gore skirt with a doubled up waist band.

It twirls well.

I made it mid-calf length, since my maxi skirts have been getting stuck in the wheels of my office chair.  I figure this length will help with that.

During the initial pattern release the Brasov top will be on sale for one week, starting today, for $8.00 (original price $10).  Go on over and get it soon if it appeals to you!

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A wardrobe staple – 4 gore black skirt

This is one of those pieces that will get worn all the time.  It is fitted at the hips and skims down to flare out above the knee.

This is a nice length for this area, since I can wear it in the winter with tights underneath and boots.  It will still show my boots, and not get in the snow.  It is just these pattern pieces, and simple construction.  Sew the sides of the waistline together, and fold in half.  Attach all the gore pieces together, and top-stitch, if desired (I didn’t do it on this one).  Attach the waist to the bottoms.  Hem. Done!

I didn’t have enough length to get all four gores out of it, so it has a seam down the back for the last gore.  It takes a good 2.5 yards of fabric for this…more if it is a directional print.

It is easy to walk around in, so just a comfy, stretchy skirt.  I made another one last week, but it was to match a top in a pattern test that will be wrapped up by next week.  It is just such a nice quick sew!

The top here is one I made many years ago, and have a tutorial on how I drafted and put it together.

Pattern hack – zipped cowl top

Is that a good name for it?  Not sure what to call this style.

Okay, what we have here is a tutorial for a pattern hack to get this style of top:

Instructions to hack a pattern

In order to do this hack, you need a basic long sleeve t-shirt top pattern that fits.  I used the Wardrobe by Me Basic T-shirt in a size larger than I would fit per the measurements.  I wanted it looser fitting.  I added the band at the bottom, the cowl and a facing, but otherwise, the bones of this top is just a basic long-sleeved t-shirt top.

Need –

  • Basic t-shirt pattern
  • 1.5 yards of fabric (roughly)
  • Interfacing
  • 16″ or 18″ zipper
  • Optional: Wondertape (for placing zipper)

Take out your front, back and sleeve shirt patterns, and trace a copy of them.  Figure out where it would hit just under your breasts, and mark that spot on your pattern piece.  Now make a gradual curve down to the side.  I just draw this in with a pencil first and then cut.

The diagram above shows what I did for the front and back pieces.  Make sure the cuts meet up on the sides.  The bottom band for my shirt ended up being 6″ x 18″ on the fold (both top and sides).

This next diagram shows how I used the front piece that I had cut from the pattern to draft two new pieces.

The cowl I measured the length of the neck opening on the pattern pieces (subtracting the seam allowance at the shoulder), and used that length for the length of the piece.  The width is 7.5″ wide, which can be cut on the fold OR you can use two different fabrics for the inside and outside (what I have done).

These are the majority of the pattern pieces (just missing a piece for the bottom band and front facings).

These are all the pieces cut out except the front facings.  I forgot to do those until I got to that part of construction.  I just used 2″ into each side of the front pieces for the facing pieces.  The facing is just giving you some protection from chaffing from the zipper.

Construction:

  • Sew the shoulder seams together (I sewed the bottom on the back piece first, but you can wait on that if you want).

  • If you have an inside and outside of the cowl piece, you need to sew them together along the long edge.
  • Attach the cowl to the neckline along one edge right sides together.  The inside of the cowl is going to be the one showing, so select the outside part to attach first.

  • Next add the facings to the inside edge of the cowl.  Don’t use a serger for this, just zigzag them on.

  • Add interfacing along the edges.  My interfacing was 1.5″ wide.  If you have a seam for the cowl, just go up to that seam and not over it.  I ended up cutting the interfacing there, since it affects how the seam folds over.

  • Take your zipper, and figure out where it will hit at the neckline and mark this spot.  This helps to make sure your zipper does not get skewed and offset when stitching up.

  • Place the marking at the neckline and sandwich it between the inside/outside cowl, front piece and front facing.  Clip in place, and you can check to make sure the zipper will match when zipping it up by turning it carefully to the outside and zipping up. Straight stitch the zipper.  If you want to make sure it won’t shift, use Wondertape to hold in place.  Just make sure you are placing the tape inside the seam allowance so it won’t show once stitched up.

  • Top-stitch the zipper seams.

  • Attach the inside edge of the cowl to the neckline.  You can turn the edge under, pin and top-stitch or do the burrito method (enclosing the body pieces in the cowl), leaving an opening to pull everything through to the outside.  I did the burrito method, and then still top-stitched.  It just allowed me to not have to pin as much.

  • Top-stitch the top edge of the cowl (if desired), and stitch down the front facing pieces.

  • Now we are going to attach the bottom front to the top.  I didn’t want the extra zipper teeth at the bottom to be irritating when worn, so first I stitched across the zipper.  Next, I cut off the excess zipper and pulled the teeth apart up to the stitching.  Lastly I pulled the excess teeth off with a small pliers.  When stitching the bottom to the top, I wanted to make sure it held together, so I just did a quick basting stitch to the bottom of the zipper to keep them together.
  • Mark the middle on the top and bottom pieces.  Clip them together and stitch for both the front and back.  I first stitched the front pieces on the sewing machine and then serged.  I just wanted to make sure my serger wouldn’t hit the zipper, because that causes broken needles flying to your eyeballs.

  • Top-stitch the seams, if desired (I did).
  • Attach the arms.  I color blocked them at the 3/4 sleeve line and added a few inches of extra length.
  • Sew up the side seams, matching the curves at the side, and hem the arms.

  • Sew the edges of the bottom band together.  Mark it in 1/4’s for the sides, middle front and middle back.

  • Mark the middle front and middle back on the bottom of the body pieces, and match them up on the band.  Sew the band on the shirt.

  • All done!

Let me know if anything is unclear in the tutorial.  I didn’t detail everything, as if you have a basic pattern, you should have instructions for some of it already.

The fabrics I used here are a brushed poly stripe from Fabric Anthropology, a black fleece backed poly and a quilted faux leather from Joann’s.

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Long overdue cardigan draft

I have been wanting to make this cardigan for quite awhile.

It wasn’t the color I would choose, but I loved the flounces.  This would have to be flounces and not ruffles, as the gathering would make it horrendous to sew the seams.

My plan of attack was to use the WBM basic t-shirt and carve out a neckline from the front.  I used a size larger than would fit me, so it had a little extra ease in it.  Next, cut a bunch of flounces.  Now, next time I would make it with smaller circles, so the flounces are more pronounced.  I cut one big circle and then made flounces from it.  They are just too gradual with the bigger circle to look as “flouncey”.

This was a sturdy double brushed poly, and I knew it would have enough structure to handle this. The fabric is a pre-order from Fabric Anthropology.

The fabric is called Frosted Coal.

A French terry would work well, too.  This is going to be very comfy to wear this winter over leggings.