Flouncey Tunic Tutorial

I wanted to make a nice neutral tunic top, so of course, I went over the top with the details.  As I was cutting it out I was wondering if I should have made a different neckline, but I really like how cozy this is with the funnel cowl on it.

Details:

Pattern used for this pattern hack:  Wardrobe by Me Basic Builder Shirt, boat neckline.

Fabric is the Dark Shadow color of Bamboo lycra jersey from Nature’s Fabrics.

Added to the pattern (I did a size 14):

How to make:

The additional pieces that need to be cut are the flounce, band and cowl.  The measurements I used for the band and cowl are noted above and the flounce pattern piece is linked.  There is a 1″ overlap on the two pages for the flounce.

Steps:

  1.  Cut the circle flounces and connect them together on one end.

2.  Lay the front pieces down with right sides out.  Put the flounces against the edges and make sure not to stretch them out.  I also made sure once they were laid out that they matched around the front and back neckline.  They did.  Next, you sandwich the flounces between the shirt fronts, right sides together and sew up to the edge.

3.  Sew the shoulders together.

4.  Place the flounce around the neckline.  You might have to let the seam out a little bit where the sewing ended on the neckline to get it to lay flat.

5. Sew up the long seam on the cowl and make sure the ending edge has the seam locked so it won’t come undone.  Now, add this to the neckline, with the seam on the outside.  This will be rolled down, so if you have the seam on the inside, it will show.  Sew up the neckline seam with the cowl and flounce attached.

6.  Sew the arms on, sew up the side seam and hem the sleeves.

 

7.  Sew up the side seam of the bottom band.  Fold in half and mark the 1/4 points.  Place the flounce bottom edges against the hemline and then attach the band, placing the 1/4 marks at the side seams, mid front and back.  Sew up the seam.

All done!

My Grecian Goddess dress

In the interest of cleaning up some old posts in my blog, I bring you a pattern test that got dropped this summer.  It fit some of the ladies, but overall it was hard to get it right.  It wasn’t the easiest pattern to make with all those gathers in knit materials.

I wasn’t sure if this style of dress would look okay on my figure, since it has a fitted waist. I tend to gain weight at my waist, so I try to stay away from these styles. I do really like how it turned out, though. You needed a fabric with a good drape to it. My fabric is a poly knit and was a Calvin Klein fabric. It was only 45″ wide, so it took a bit more yardage than it would have if it had been a normal 60″ knit width.  I had to go back to the fabric store for more.

It needed to be drapey, so fabric choice was pretty important.  I would not use a cotton lycra for something like this.  A jersey, ITY, thinner bamboo jersey or a viscose is best.  I think this was a viscose knit.  It was basically labeled as Calvin Klein knit.  They don’t label well, pretty much…ever.

I added micro mesh between the waist pieces.  This added a bit of tightening and kept it in place better.  When you are a rectangle there really isn’t much for hips to keep things in place.  I also sandwiched the top part of the waistband pieces with the top pieces, which wasn’t how it was in the instructions.  I like to enclose all seams if I can.

Overall, this was a very cute dress, so it’s a bummer she dropped it.  This style fit some body types better than others.  Keeping the knit gathers even was the hardest part.  I gathered mine on the serger, which gave the seam some stability when attaching to the ungathered pieces.  Probably not a beginner pattern, but still plenty worth the effort.

 

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Prince in purple

Seems a bit ubiquitous to do purple, now doesn’t it?  😉

This is the new round up at Fabric Anthropology with famous musician’s that have passed, in addition to some Pride prints celebrating acceptance.

I sewed up the Prince panel, with plans to get over to Paisley Park to get some photos of it in the background.  Then, it snowed and turned rather chilly, so my resolve was a bit dimmed.

But, I did it dang it!  I stood out there in the 20 degree weather with a wind chill and light snow.

I did get a few flats beforehand, though…

These were the initial photos I got of the tunic, which was self-drafted.  It has a hood that overlaps at the neckline, side cuts and bishop sleeves.  Next version will have a lower front neckline, more foldover of the hood bottom and a higher back neckline.  This was my initial draft.  Always something to fix.

It was also a bit tighter than I wanted it to be, which is partly due to the ponte mixed with cotton lycra.  Ponte doesn’t have as much stretch.

The fabrics include the panel, which has a coordinating musical bird print on the other side, a black ponte and a white poly.

I love how it turned out!  The legging fabric matches pretty well, too.  This is my own fabric design on sport lycra from Spoonflower.

The hood is a little longer than I think it should be.  I will make that adjustment next time, too.

If you want to see all the prints in this order, go to Fabric Anthropology.  The pre-order will be open through December 15.

Little bag

On Saturday night we were going to go to a concert to see A Perfect Circle, so I wanted to get a small bag finished up to carry my phone and wallet.  I had been meaning to make something like this for awhile now, and am pretty happy with how it turned out.

I made this pretty quickly…a little over two hours.  I started out with a pattern I had made previously for the main body, and then added the expander pieces and top pocket.

This is made from two different lambskin leathers, with some places using a woven iron on interfacing.  Lambskin is pretty flimsy when it comes to leather, so a few places I doubled it up.

I used black suede on the underside of the front flap and along the edges to give the pockets more room.

The back:

The strap is a woven strapping that I had laying around.  I keep straps that get unused, so I can used the hardware and/or just the strap itself.  This is adjustable, so I could also put it on my waist if I wanted.  I used it as more of a cross body bag that night, and it is small and unobtrusive.

The front clasp keeps coming undone, so I need to figure out something for that.  It also shifts to the side a bit and the opening is too floppy, so I think I will tack the pocket down near the top of the opening.  That should be fun since it is all put together now.

Edit: I figured out what was wrong with the clasp…the top piece was upside down.  I pulled the rivets apart with a pliars and took it apart to move it around.  It works great now!

I am thinking of making another and doing a tutorial on it.  We’ll see when I get that done!

Copying RTW

There are a pair of stretch jeggings I have where I really like the fit of them.  They are kind of straight leg leggings, and I wanted to copy them for awhile now.  I finally got that done this weekend.

When I copy a RTW item I own, I turn it inside out, cover each pattern piece with the sticky Press and Seal, and then mark at the seam with a Sharpie.

Once I have the pieces, I put them on a big piece of paper and cut them out with a seam allowance.  I was going to do the waist a bit different and give it more room in the crotch, so I made those changes here as I was cutting it out. 

All ready for a muslin.

I knew I wanted to use my scuba suede for this project, but wanted to be sure it would fit first.  I used a ponte for the “muslin”, and tried it on along the way.  I needed the rise to be a little lower on this for where I wanted it to fall.

They turned out pretty comfy!

City stripes

I love the fact that I am at a place in my sewing that I can have an idea and be able to draft patterns to what I want.  This doesn’t always mean the execution is easy, though!  This jacket was a huge pain the butt, and took most of a day, but I love it.

I was going for cool jacket vibe here.

These were most of the pieces (just missing the pockets):

The fabrics I used here were:

Fabric Anthropology – Red City Stripes (currently on Pre-Order until November 15).

Nature’s Fabrics – Black Bamboo Stretch Fleece 300gsm

Nature’s Fabrics – Dark Shadow Bamboo Stretch Fleece 300gsm

All these fabrics were fantastic to work with.  I received the FA sample for free, but purchased the sweatshirt fleece fabrics.  I used brushed poly for the FA fabric, but I think their French terry would have worked great, too.  I think having BP in the back panel that gets cinched in worked very nicely since it has more drape to it.  The FA brushed poly is nice and thick, so it worked well to mix it with sweatshirt fleece.

This how you know what the heck you are doing with sewing.  Sewing these points in fabric has gotten much easier now that I figured out how to do it.

The back has a faux leather with some eyelets I put in it them.  The eyelet setter has some crappy reviews, but it was easy to figure out and use.  Not sure why someone would need instructions.  I used black elastic in the cinching so it would be comfy to wear.

I widened out the back in order to have a nice body to it when cinching it up.  The top yoke helped to keep the extra width corralled.

The hood and the front middle sections are fully lined and enclosed.  It looks pretty good on the inside.  The hood has five pieces to it.  My biggest angst was figuring out how the heck I had to put on the hood.  Oh, and the fact that I ran out of Wondertape in putting in the zipper.

All in all, I absolutely love how this turned out!  Check out the links for the fabrics if you like them.  It is so hard to find good sweatshirt fleece, and this fleece feels fantastic.  I also just love the FA brushed poly.

My next sewing projects are going to include a few more watercolors from FA when I get them in the mail (girl is getting more fun stuff), and I also need to make a black and white choir outfit for her, too.  I’ve got a great idea for it, and I think she will look very pretty in it.  More drafting ahead!

Wanderer

I love it when a plan comes together!  I have been drawn towards greens and love Lord of the Rings prints.  Plus it kind of makes my hair look super bright!

The cardigan here is made from Leaf Modal Spandex Jersey from Nature’s Fabrics. Disclosure: They sent me this fabric for free, but all opinions are my own.

I wanted to try one of their fabrics that I hadn’t purchased previously, but also one that had a nice drape to it.  The modal was recommended to me, and it worked really nicely for the cardigan.  There is a lot of fabric in the skirt part and it needs to have a nice fall to it.  The modal isn’t super thick, so I wouldn’t say this is a warm fabric.  As a layer with my top it worked really well, though.  It would be nice for fall and spring cardigans…it was in the 30’s for these pictures, so not quite the right temps!

Movement!

The cardigan is my own pattern draft that I made last year.  I love the skirt part and it is fun to wear!

The top is a modified Sneha from Wardrobe by Me and the leggings are my own draft.

The Lord of the Ring Fabrics are from Affordable Fabrics & More.  I purchased these on the pre-order, but I think she will be opening up for retail soon.

If you are looking for some really nice solids, I would recommend Nature’s Fabrics.  I love the bamboo spandex jersey, which I used for the rest of the top.  It is SUPER comfy to wear, and also has a nice drape.  Not quite as good as the modal, but still nice.

Now, I have some strikes in the washing machine and not much time to sew.  Everything comes in waves, I swear!

Finally a black purse

In early 2017 I had made a black purse that I loved.  After going back home for a benefit (whereby I made two other purses for it) I was offered some moola for my black purse.  I knew she really wanted it and would ask me again for it, so I sold it to her.

Well, I finally made a replacement one.

This is a pattern I have developed and still need to tweak a bit.  One of these days I will do a tutorial on it.  It definitely takes a good 6 hours to make it.  I usually try to do all the interfacing and gluing and then leave it for the night and work on it the next day.

This is a regular lambskin and a perforated lambskin with gunmetal hardware.

I forget the fabric line for the interior and I used pretty much all of the 1/2 yard of fabric that I had for it.

I have a zipper on the inside, two interior pockets and an outside pocket on each side (fits a phone).

It also has some feet on the bottom, but I forgot to take pictures of that.  This is on my list to do a pattern and tutorial for it.  One of these days I will get my stuff together on that!

A little bit of sass…

I’m pretty sure this photo explains the little bit of sass…

This is a pretty cute little panel that is up at Rockerbye on pre-order.  This round is full of horses, llamas, some jungle creatures and cute coordinates.   The pre-order starts today at Rockerbye.

The size of the panel here is a child’s panel, and it was a little small for a 12 wide sizing.  I would have opted for a bigger size, but I made it work!  I added some overlays on the front and back and extended the bottom with some split bands.

I made her a pair of straight leg leggings to go with the top.  They will be super comfy to wear, since it is a nice thick ponte with lycra.

I also added some fun roses and leaves to the top to give it that western flair (files in my Google drive folder on the sidebar).

I drafted the top, and just kind of winged the overlays.  They have raw edges, and I did a double line of lightning bolt stitching to attach them.

They have some cute coordinates that go with this print, in addition to some other forest and farm animals. Go check it out if this interests you!

A quick tunic dress

I made this dress before going to a concert a few weeks ago.  It was Apocalyptica plays Metallica, and we took the younguns’ with us.  It was a nice smallish concert hall, and four cellos playing rock is always interesting!  It was a late night, though, so we payed for it on Monday morning.  It was also a suuuuper busy weekend again, and I didn’t have a lot of time to make something.

Then, I wore it for our family pictures and then to work today!

I had purchased some bamboo spandex/jersey from Nature’s Fabrics which is a nice weight and very comfy.  The inside is a little bit brushed.  This color is called “Forest“.  I love it, so I went online I bought more this week (someone take my credit card away!).

I decided to make a Sneha tunic.  The modifications I made were 2″ longer on the skirt, sleeveless and I added a 24″ long cowl to the neckline.  I did a simple rectangle.

This will be good to wear with either tights or leggings and it can transition from summer to winter as a layering piece.

I wore it with some leggings I made a few years back and my cardigan from last fall.

A nice comfy outfit, where I could match up pieces made at different times.  I think I am getting this wardrobe thing down.  I tend to just make my favorite colors, so then I have other things that match it well.