Unmentionables

No modeling of these!

Generally, there are things I tend to buy.  Jeans, outerwear and underwear being in that group.  It seems a waste of time to make underwear, since they are so cheap.  Of course, if you like a certain overpriced brand in a version they no longer carry…then you might be inclined to make them.

I took a pair that was worn out, and traced the pattern.  First pair was fairly good, though I stretched the elastic on the legs and should not have done so.  They are tight in the legs now.  The second pair, I raised the waist a little and didn’t stretch the leg elastic.

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Good stuff.  They fit and didn’t take much fabric or time.  Give this a shot if you are inclined to make something that fits well.

I made a few more in some neutral colors.  Changing a few things.  I lowered the front waistline a little.  I think I need to lower it more.  The fabrics I used are cotton lycra knit and jersey knit with lycra.

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I got the elastic at the fabric store here, but there is a lot on Amazon.  The top elastic is about 3″ wide.  Leg elastic is 1″ wide.  I actually bought 6″ wide elastic and cut it down the middle.  It seems to be holding up well in the wash.  I just zig-zagged it over the top of the fabric.  These are really easy to make.  Here are what my pattern pieces look like:

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Like I said…don’t stretch the lace elastic, at least the thinner one.  The 6″ elastic had a lot more stretch that the 1″ elastic.  Test yours to see how much it stretches.  The thinner laces didn’t have a lot of give, but it just could have been the type I purchased.

Last pair, and now I am working on holiday sewing, like probably every other sewist.  I have a to do list that is a mile long, but only so many things are going to get made.

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Mix and match sparkles

I saw this striped fabric on a custom fabric website and thought it would be perfect for the pattern test I did on the cropped jacket.  Unfortunately, I spent way too much on fabric for these pieces, but sometimes you just gotta splurge.  Most of my fabrics I buy are at a discount fabric warehouse, so I don’t normally spent a lot per yard.

Fabrics:

Here are all of the pieces I made with the above fabrics, and how they can all go together.  I have another few plain black pieces I made for her that will go with them, too.  I bought 2 yards of both the black arrows and the gold sparkle, since she needs over a yard of fabric to make her bottoms.

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Folis Jacket by Sofilantjes (just released)

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This jacket is so cute!  It is an unlined jacket, and pretty easy to throw together.  It also comes in a long jacket and dress.  Any version would be cute.  It is meant to be fitted, so she doesn’t recommend long sleeved shirts underneath.  My girl has skinny arms, so it isn’t as fitted on her as it was on other testers.  I made a 10W and 13L.

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I used most of one yard on the jacket, with and extra half yard for the hood lining and bands.

Domi pants by Sofilantjes

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These were made out of the French terry and I kept it simple.  She didn’t want pockets on the pants, so I left them off.  I also made them long and just hemmed them instead of adding the bands on the bottom.

Nivalis/Hibernis by Sofilantjes mash up

This is similar to the tattoo horse top I made her previously, only I made it short sleeves. (Sorry, didn’t get a picture of it without the jacket!)

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Hibernis by Sofilantjes

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I left off the pockets on this top, and just did the side panel pieces plain.  No cowl either, and I used the hood from the Nivalis pattern.  I added on thumbhole cuffs.

Shenanigans Skort leggings by 5 out of 4 Patterns

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Not Sofilantjes for this one.  I like the leggings from this pattern, and they fit her well.

All the pieces will go well together.  She is wearing a black long sleeved shirt under the hood with some of the pictures, and she also has some plain black leggings, and a pair of black stretch velvet domi pants.  Lots of stuff to mix and match!

A fun tween capsule for her to be able to wear this winter. 🙂

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Reds and blacks

I finally got pictures of this top that I made in late summer.  I have shared a picture of the skirt before, but here is a better shot of it.

The shirt is my drape top pattern out of Modern Jersey in my own fabric design.  I really like this design, and even put it on a pair of shoes that I purchased from Zazzle.

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I kept my top sleeveless, so I can use it in both summer and winter.

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The skirt is made out of a nice thick black ponte.  It is a bit of a mermaid style skirt with 4 gores and then a waistband.

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It was super easy to put together.  Just serge the 4 pieces together and add the waistband on it.  Everything stretches, so fitting wasn’t an issue.  The waistband is a little less than two of the pieces.  I kind of eye-balled it and cut it out.

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I should have top-stitched the seams down.  It is a little irritating.  It also isn’t the easiest to walk in, so I want to change where it swoops out to a bit more above the knee.  The waistband also flopped over since it was straight up and down.  Next time I will use one where it goes in at the waist.  This is like the waistband on this skirt.

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I have some chambray colored ponte that I plan on making another top/skirt combo.  That ponte is much softer and more pliable, so I think it will be pretty comfortable for a skirt.

In the meantime, I have to do a pattern test for Sofilantjes that I am really excited about.  I have a SUPER CUTE outfit grouping planned for the girl, and spent too much money on custom fabric for it.  She doesn’t know how lucky she is. 😉

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Plaid cape top and gored skirt

Here is a Pinterest pattern hack coming for you.  This pin is pretty popular.  It is a short-sleeved top with a “cape” over it.  If you are on Pinterest, I am sure you have seen it.  I know it comes up in my feed all the time.

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I wanted to make this as part of my winter capsule in black and long-sleeved.  Since it is for winter, I am not doing the key-hole in the back.  That would be cold.

The base pattern I used for this is the Wardrobe by Me – Wardrobe Builder Tee.  I made two versions – one in black and the one shown here.  I made it a size larger for the black, as I wanted a looser fit, so I made a size 14.  I did it in cotton lycra and it didn’t have the right amount of drape.  I will be re-doing it.

This was the first time I made this WBM pattern, and I do generally like the fit.  Christina drafts for more of a pear shape, which I am a rectangle.  If you have more of a difference in your hips/waist than I do, some of the modifications I made will not apply to you.  Got to work with what you got!

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I will make up an add-on pattern for this, but I want to do a few modifications of this top first.

I used a jersey knit here.  As I said above, I needed to do some modifications.  I made this to my measurements (size 12), and it slid down on my hips a bit too far.   I am a rectangle, so this wouldn’t slide down on a pear shape.   First, I tried sewing clear elastic in the bottom 6″ of the side hems on either side.  The elastic was 4″ long, so it had a subtle ruching of about 2″.  Didn’t look right.  Next, I took out the elastic (fun times) and cut off 3″ off the bottom, including the hem.  I hemmed it at a good spot on my hip.  I think knowing the most flattering length of top on YOUR body is pretty important.  Lengths that look good on others won’t necessarily look good on you.

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A pretty simple add on for a pattern, but a fun stylish one!  You can add whatever length sleeves you want with the wardrobe builder shirt, or do sleeveless underneath by adding a band to, or hemming, the armscye.

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So, the skirt.

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This is a first draft of a gored skirt.   I wanted it to have a bit more flare, so I will have to redraft it for that.

More to come…hopefully. 😉

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Make all the hoodies!

My son is a soon to be teenager, and it appears at this age that hoodies are a thing.  He wears hoodies and t-shirts all winter long.  Now, while he has plenty of t-shirts, there is a lack of hoodies.  He had one that fit and a few that were too small but worked, so he was wearing his hoodie that fit for days at a time.  I think it was ready to walk off his floor and put itself in the laundry pile!

I asked in a pattern Facebook group if there were any tween/men’s patterns for a full zip up hoodie and got zero responses to that call.  I looked at Wardrobe by Me’s patterns and she had a hoodie, but it didn’t zip.  After some back and forth with the designer, she decided to release one since there appeared to be a dearth of this style in men’s patterns.  I did the initial test (this is a size Small on my 5′ 8″ 112 pounder), so here are my versions of the hoodie for my boy.  He wanted the character fabric on it, and he was really pleased.  The only difference is that I faced the hood with the character fabric.  On her pattern, it is a self-facing.

She is testing the pattern now, and should be releasing it soon.  I will update with a link when she does.

EDIT:  Just released: Ziggi Zipper Hoodie

These use a 24″ zipper, which is not the easiest to put in with the shifty knits.  It is easier if your main knit doesn’t have a lot of vertical stretch.  I also serged the edge so it would not stretch as much.  Then went really slow.  I think a walking foot would be fantastic here.  I needs one.  The second and third hoodies here went much easier due to lack of vertical stretch.

I put a mark on the zipper edges to make sure they are aligned at the same spot for the pockets.  If they are off even a little bit, it is very noticeable.  I did this for all of them, but unfortunately I was off on the Cylon hoodie.

I bought all of the main fabrics locally at a fabric warehouse.  I didn’t have much luck finding a simple sweatshirt knit, but found these fleece and sherpa backed knits.

Hoodie #1 – Fleece backed knit and custom knit from Sugar Ink Fabrics (Fallout – Vault Boy).  It will match his t-shirt. 😉

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Hoodie #2 – This is a sherpa backed knit with a custom fabric from Sugar Ink Fabrics (Fallout).

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Hoodie #3 – This is another sherpa backed knit with a custom fabric from Sugar Ink Fabrics (Battlestar Gallactica – Cylons).  This one will be extremely warm, so I imagine he will wear it most of the time when it is cold out.  He hasn’t watched Battlestar Gallactica, so I need to introduce him to the cylons. 😉

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Now, he will hopefully be set on hoodies for a little while and I can work on something else! Sooooo much fabric, so little time!

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Guest post – Stylin’ Stacy – Cosplay Costumes

This is a guest post I did for Crafting Con.  Bringing it home for Halloween!

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Hello!  I am Stacy and I blog at Stylin’ Stacy.  The costumes I tend to make these days are centered around cosplay characters.  They serve dual purposes as my kids wear them to a convention in the spring and then Halloween in the fall.  I usually have to add cloaks or some such to their fall wearing as Halloween here is rather chilly.

Here are a few of the costumes I have made and some links to more details on them.

Maleficent:

Photo shoot

Accessories and dress – making of

Connor – Assassin’s Creed III

Photo shoot

Making of: Pants and vest, Jacket, beaded arm bands, vambraces, tomohawk and other accessories

Elsa

Photo Shoot (not a great one for this!) and costume details

Wizard – Clash of Clans

Photos and Costume details

Ciri and Geralt – The Witcher III

Photo Shoot

Making of Ciri:  Corset, Shirt, pants and accessories

Making of Geralt: Costume

Then, here are some random Renaissance costumes I made for them:

These costumes take a lot of time, are expensive, but the kids feel absolutely awesome in them.  I spend months working on these costumes, and just trying to figure out how to make the different pieces.  There is nothing purchased on them, except their shoes.   I make everything, even their weapons.  There is nothing like going to a convention and having people stop them, compliment them and ask to take pictures of how awesome they are.  I get a thrill, too, as their creator!

Tattoo Horse top

My daughter needed a new top to wear for our family pictures, too, right??

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Of course, she did.

I drew the horse out during one of the kids’ games, and I knew she would want it on a shirt.  I transferred it to a digital format, and cut it out with the Silhouette.  See the link to the file on the sidebar.

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Now for the top.  I asked her if she wanted a hood and thumb-hole cuffs, and she did, indeed.  I saw someone on Facebook post this mash up where the Nivalis was turned into a slim-fitting shirt.  I took the pattern pieces for the bottom part, and put them up against the Hibernis pieces for the width and length of the top.

A pretty easy hack, and I like how the upper part goes into the arms.

Yep, wasn’t really focusing on getting pictures of the shirt.

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Here’s a nicer one, though, still not straight on.  And not in focus.

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Pretty sure she will be wearing this top plently. 🙂

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Pattern hack – Cowl/hood top

I like to look at CAbi for inspiration on new pieces to make.  I like the details, in general, and they tend to have nice finishes.  I have a friend that invites me to her parties, and I usually end up buying a few pieces that fit into my wardrobe.

This casual top caught my eye this time:

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It is a deep cowl (about 12″) that transitions into a hood.  It is a nice piece, but I knew I could make it much cheaper than the price they were charging.  It was a pretty simple hack, too.

The top pattern I used here for the base is the Wardrobe by Me Builder T-shirt, which I sized up by one size to make it a looser fit.

The first top I did, I learned a good lesson with it.  Don’t use a poly knit that has a definite right side and wrong side.  You need a knit that is hard to differentiate the front from the back, or where you don’t mind the wrong side color.

After making this first one, I realized my pattern was too shallow for the hood part.  I also didn’t do the thumb-holes or tie waist.  I just wanted to get a muslin completed.  It was wearable, at least.

I do like how this second one turned out.

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Here is the add on I made to the basic pattern.  The neckline I used was the medium scoop boatneck.  Here are my hand-drawn pattern pieces for the hood and cuffs.  I wrote on the main hood piece the hood binding measurements, so don’t miss that piece.

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Fabric is from Joann’s. I uploaded my Silhouette Studio file for the shirt design to my Google Drive folder.

  1.  Sew your shirt up (shoulder seams, attach sleeves, sew up the side seams), leaving the neckline edge raw.
  2.  Sew the front and back cowl/hood pieces together.

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3.  Top-stitch the seams.  I just used a long straight stitch and pull it while I stitch it, so it has some stretch to it.

20161022_15754.  Sew the ends of the binding together and attach to the hood, with the seam in the middle top of the hood.

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5. Press the stitching down towards the inside of the hood and topstitch.

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6.  Turn the binding inward in half and then over the seam.  Pin and topstitch.

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7.  Mark the midde front and middle back of the shirt neckline and cowl.  Clip together at these spots and pin the rest together.  They should match fairly close.  Sew together.

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8.  Pin the bottom hem 1.5″, sew up the hem, leaving an opening to add elastic.  Put in the elastic, and close up the hole.  I measured the elastic on my high hip to determine a comfortable length.

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9.  The thumbhole cuffs are hard to explain, so see this tutorial if the pictures don’t make sense.  First you sew up the side seams on the cuffs.

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10.  Have one cuff edge inside out and one right side out and fit the corners together.  You can use a needle and thread to sew in the corners and pull them together.  Baste them down, so they won’t move.  Sew just inside the seam to catch the edge, and stitch a few lines 0.5″ down.

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11.  Place the side seams together, matching them carefully, and pin.  Sew down from the hem, along the seamline for 1.5″ (I did 2″ here and it was a little tight). Make sure to back-tack and secure the seams.

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12.   Turn right side out.  One side will generally look better, so choose that one for the outside. Pin the cuffs to the ends of the sleeves and attach.

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All done!

The poetry of Poison

Last spring I bought these patterned jeans on sale at Justice for my daughter.  I don’t make EVERYTHING that she wears.  These are 14 Slims and I still needed to put elastic in the back waist for them to fit well.  A relatively easy fix, but that is generally the reason why I make a lot of her clothes.  I can’t buy her those yoga pants or leggings, since in order for them to be long enough, they will be too big around the waist. Custom made by mama is a good thing for her.

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I knew I would make a shirt to match, since we live in matchy-matchy town here.  I was thinking of what to put on it and the song from Poison came to mind.

Every rose has its thorn,

just like

every night has its dawn.

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I drew up a rose and then cut out the rose and words with HTV.  Of course, I forgot to mirror the words, so I needed to cut them out twice.  Ugh.

I created a folder on Google Drive to share the Silhouette files that I make.  There is also a link on the sidebar here.

The top here is my tester version of the Love Notions Maggie Peplum.

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I had intended to make a top like this anyways, so I volunteered for the test.  It is a pretty simple top to put together, and looks rather nice!  I did a bit of grading here, with a size 14 shoulder and armscye, graded down to a size 7 waist and 14 length.

The only issue I had with the drafting was that the shoulder width was the same for the size 7 and 14.  I think that should be made wider, as well, and not just the neckhole made wider.  This was mentioned.  I haven’t seen the final pattern yet to see if she made a change to the neckline.  I will update if she did.

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The fabric here is a hunter green bamboo cotton lycra knit.  The color didn’t photograph well here.  I was pressed for time, so we didn’t get pictures outside on this one.  We are losing daylight each day. 🙁

Nothing like a good peplum…which is also an ’80’s throwback. 😉

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Celtic Jacket

This jacket was a pattern test that was dropped in the spring.  My pictures are from the spring, so I decided to finally post this since fall is upon us.  As much as she has grown, I doubt it fits her now!

The pattern may come out sometime, but I decided to pull myself from that testing group.  There were a few reasons.

  • My daughter has grown past their highest  size, which shows a bit in this jacket.  It was a 10W and 12L, and it is still a little short on her in the body.
  • They do a lot of dresses, and my daughter is past that.
  • She likes knit and they use a lot of wovens.
  • They also take some shortcuts.  The collar on this should have been a curved mandarin style and the pattern piece was a rectangle.   That shortcut is really bothersome to me, since the collar has wrinkles in it and doesn’t lay correctly. My suggestion was met with much hesitation, before she decided to drop the test for later.  I just *can’t* with that anymore.

The pants she is wearing here are the Emilya’s that are the 12L.  I made them about a year ago.  Obviously, a little short on her here, but they look cute for this outfit.  I would stay away from the Emilya’s for the larger sizes, unless you want to redraft the crotch curve.  It ends up very pointy, so it needs be eased out a bit.  Yes, I did mention this in testing.

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The problem with picking sizing on their patterns, is that they have the chest and waist measurements, but not the height.  When I did the first test, I went by those measurements and it was way too tight (she fit in the size 8 measurements).

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Overall, the jacket turned out cute, and I hope she wears it a little bit.  Not sure that she will, though, since it isn’t “stretchy”.  This kid is all about knit now.  It may just end up going to the give away pile, which makes me bummed since I love the fabric on it.

For a quick kid’s jacket it turned out cute.  If I had bought the pattern, I would have redone the collar and lengthened the body a bit, but this was for a pattern test.   I will watch to see if they come out with this as a pattern.  I’m curious to see if anyone has fit issues.

*Update: I have been informed that this designer is no longer with the company, so it won’t be released by them.  There will also be an update to the Emilya’s pattern soon.