Slash Tunic

This was a new test for George & Ginger Pattern Company, where she extended the sizes on the bottom and top of her size range.  She added tween sizes (12 & 14) and sizes in the upper range (goes up to size 26/5X).

The Slash Tunic by George & Ginger Patterns

This was my first version out of a ponte that didn’t quite stretch enough.  I made the tunic length, long sleeve in a size 12 chest graded to 14 hip.  I didn’t do any shorten/lengthen adjustments on it.  It was too tight in the underarms, so make sure you choose a fabric with enough stretch.  I should have known better, since I made myself an outfit with this before.  This is going to be headed out to someone else…maybe one of her friends!

The pants were the Jalie Eleonore’s that also didn’t have enough stretch.  I need to add to the rise and add some length for the next version.

This next one is out of a poly lycra from The Worth Collection.  It was a fabric from the local fabric warehouse.  It has plenty of stretch with a nice brushed interior.

This one is a straight size 14 with the 3/4 length arm and tunic length.  You have to make sure when you are doing the hem on the slit that you are not pulling it at all.  This can make it offset and uneven.  If you have a really stretchy fabric, I would suggest a thin line of iron on interfacing to hold its shape.

The pants she is wearing are from her assassin costume I made.  Figured she could still wear the pants before she grows out of them.  The fabric is a pleather on a scuba type base, so they are comfy.

I also added HTV to this top on the upper arms and middle front.

When I sit down and create the designs in Photoshop, I try to take the measurements of the pattern and make one that will fit within the seam allowance.  Doesn’t always work, but I think this one worked out pretty well.  I have to layer the cut for the front since it is longer than my 12″ cutting mat and 15″ heat press pad.

All the designs I use are ones I drew.  I have tons of them.  My computer is in the family room, so I will sometimes just draw while watching tv with the family.  Once the design is done (I usually just draw one side, so it is even), I will mirror it, finish it up and then create a brush with it in Photoshop.  When you make them into brushes, you can then use any color and size and it is easier to create designs from them.

Once I have the .jpg file the way I like it, I bring it into the Silhouette software, trace it, an make any additional size changes I need.  Then, I just cut it out, weed it and put it on my fabric, usually before construction.  It is easier to put it on then.  I also bought myself a heat press this summer.  Oh boy, does that make application sooooo much easier.  I’ll be using HTV a lot more now that I can easily and quickly put it on.

I will get the files (.jpg and .studio) into the Google drive folder (link in the sidebar) at some point…hopefully tonight.

This top is currently on a release sale for $6.75.  Click on over to get it, if it is something you need in your closet!

Jersey shirt for #footballmom

Not one to shy away from fanwear for my kiddos, I happily tested this football jersey top pattern.  The test ended up being dropped due to some fit issues, so unfortunately, no pattern at this point to share.  Maybe in the future she will finish it up, but not sure if that is in the cards.

Still, I love this top, so I’m putting it up. 🙂

I made mine with a black bamboo lycra from Nature’s Fabrics, and a red jersey I purchased locally.

It is super comfy, and pretty quick to put together.  I have tested quite a few v-necklines in the last year, so now I feel like I have gotten them down!   I used the method from the Orange Daisy free top.  She has it nicely detailed in her instructions and it turns out a good finish.

I had to add a graphic, of course, so I drew this one up.  The files are located in a link on the sidebar.  I don’t know how to create more than just the .studio file and .jpg, but the .jpg should be able to be traced for other programs.

Now I’m already to cheer on my son’s team!

Romeo Raglan dress

Another pattern test from Rogue Pattern company.  This one is a loose fitting, wide neckline raglan dress with a handkerchief hem.  It is very comfortable!

Romeo Raglan Dress

I had some focusing issues…excuse the slightly blurry pictures!

I made mine with a stretch French terry fabric that has a nice drape.

I felt like I was wearing my pajamas at work.

I think if you have an actual waistline, it would also work to be belted to give it a bit more structure.  I, however, do not so I will be wearing it like this. 🙂

One thing to note, is that the neckline needs to have a fabric with a good amount of stretch, so it will lay correctly.  It might be best to baste it on first and then serge if it lays correctly.  This is just a problem with wider necklines.  Too little stretch and they get floppy…too much recovery and they stand up.  I did end up lengthening my pattern piece by 2″ on the fold.  I think it would have only needed an extra 1″ on the fold based on this fabrics’ stretch and recovery.  I will probably take it off and do that, but haven’t quite gotten to that yet.

The pattern is being released today for $4 (regular price is $9).  If you are looking for a comfy, loose fitting dress, snatch this one up. 🙂

Joggers are not actually for jogging

As the Girl’s gym teacher learned when he was trying to talk her into joining the track team.  He was pushing hard, too.

“Uh, yeah, no…running isn’t really my thing.”

You can, though, still look cute in them.

These are the Rumba Joggers from Rogue Patterns, set to release tomorrow.  They come in a huge size range (0-30), and she worked really hard to make sure it fit across the different body size spectrums.

I made them out of the Electric Lime supplex from Zenith & Quasar fabrics.  You need a pretty stretchy fabric for the waist, so make sure you pick that one wisely.

They were quick to sew up (about 1.5hrs including pattern taping to finishing).

The top is one I drafted, and need to revisit where it crosses in the front.  A few inches lower would make her more comfortable.  This is from Z&Q, too, and is a brushed poly print.

It looks like pictures before school are going to have to wait until spring again.  The sun was barely over the horizon, so the pictures are soft and grainy.  She gets on the bus in the 7am timeframe, so we are losing light now.

I’m not ready for the dark days of winter!  But winter is coming…yes, I went there. 😉

 

Brasov top from Itch to Stitch

It was hard to cut into my Carina Nebula brushed poly from Zenith & Quasar fabrics, but I knew that the pattern would fit well.

Brasov from Itch to Stitch

This is the new Brasov top from Itch to Stitch, and I tested it.  This was my first test top, and I didn’t really need to make another.  It all fit well right out of the chute, so I would really recommend it.  It has side pleats on the top layer and two pleats at the shoulder.

It took about 3 hours to make it from putting the pattern together to finishing.  You need to take your time around the pleats to make sure everything lines up well.  The only change I made to the pattern was adding 1″ to my sleeve length (she ended up adding another inch to the pattern, since I still felt it was a little short).

I needed to make a matching skirt (of course!), so I pulled this stretch poly out of my stash.

It is a cushy thick with a sateen on it.  The pattern here is my own draft, and is a 4 gore skirt with a doubled up waist band.

It twirls well.

I made it mid-calf length, since my maxi skirts have been getting stuck in the wheels of my office chair.  I figure this length will help with that.

During the initial pattern release the Brasov top will be on sale for one week, starting today, for $8.00 (original price $10).  Go on over and get it soon if it appeals to you!

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Free summer tank top

This was a pattern test for a summer tank top for Orange Daisy Patterns.  I liked the coverage, and the fact that she can actually wear this to school.  It seems like a lot of summer tops are not geared towards school aged kids and schools clothing standards.  Strappy tops and open backs are usually a no-no.

This one has nice shoulder coverage and isn’t skin tight on her.  She really liked the fit of it.

This first one is before the armscye was raised on this size 14 long.  The second one is higher, so it hides her bra. 🙂

This is a lightweight knit in a tiger camo.  Tigers need to hide in the woods apparently.

This second one is from a lightweight jersey.  Very comfy and soft fabric.  The v-neckline went together nicely.

She is short on summer outfits, so I added a skort to this top.  The feather fabric is a pre-order at Fabric Anthropology and this is double brushed poly.  I added fold over elastic to the edge to lengthen it a bit.  I got less than a fat half of this fabric, so I was stretching it as it was!

It is a little heavy for summer as this is a nice heavy brushed fabric, but I figured it wouldn’t be too hot since the flounces weren’t right next to her skin.

Join the Orange Daisy Patterns Facebook group to get the free tank top pattern!

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Rogue Tranquility Shorts & Tank/Dress

Sara at RP Custom Fabrics has decided to venture into pattern making, and I tested her first two patterns.  She is giving these away for free, but you need to join her group to get the code for them.

Tranquility Shorts

Tranquility Tank/Dress

The first pattern is a pair of shorts with the curved open side on them.  These were pretty easy to whip up, and I would suggest a nice thick cotton lycra or brushed poly for them.

This pair had the foldover yoga band on them.  I really should have used a fabric with better recovery for the band, so I might be taking this one off and putting another on. This pair was the first draft, so I ended up making it larger than my second pair.

The tank top is the Wardrobe by Me Builder t-shirt, since this panel was too small for the Tranquility Tank.  The image went up too high on it, and would have gone into the neckline.  Anyone know what show it is from? 🙂  The fabric came from Sugar Ink, but I believe it is sold out now.

This pair I put elastic in the waistband with a drawstring to make it all fancy.  I made a size 8, since my hips are narrow compared to my waist.   My waist is a larger size, but I figured I would go with hip width.  This is the mid-rise, which I figured would be more comfy in the lounging department.

This tank top is a size 14 graded to a size 10 at the hip.  I didn’t do any shorten or lengthen on them, as she drafts for my height of 5′ 7″.

This tank also comes in a dress length, which is another comfy option.

This fabric came from Zenith & Quasar, and is a brushed poly.  I bought so much of the space round.  I wasn’t sure what to do with the Hubble Telescope print, but I think this was perfect.  There is a little bit of the space round available, but not the Hubble print.  The shirt panel is available, though.

In order to get the free pattern, you need to join the Rogue Patterns group.  It is usually good to try out free patterns to see if you like them first.  Sara is a bit quirky, and it shows in her fun write-ups for her patterns.  Gives you a sense if you would want to buy the next patterns she has coming up.

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Mantica dress

Look at that stripe matching!  Just look at it!!

Yes, I am happy to say that I paid attention during cutting to try to get the side seams and the front and back all matched up for the plaid version of this cute little dress.

Mantica Dress by Sofilantjes

This knit summer dress was another pattern test for Sofilantjes.  There are options for a gathered, longer skirt, and different color blocking on the back.

I wish she could wear it to school, but no shoulders showing is the dress code.  Still, she can wear it elsewhere over the summer.

It also is a little harder for bra-wearing tween/teen to wear it due to the back, but they can also just wear a nude colored or matching bra.  It seems showing straps is not such a taboo thing anymore.  With the lined bodice, I’m not sure my girl will really need to wear one with it, but she can if it makes her more comfortable.

This dress was mostly made from a complimentary mystery scrap pack that Zenith & Quasar fabric sent to me.  The cuts were only a 1/2 yard, some had flaws, too, so I had to be creative.  Luckily I received two matching plaids, but in different fabric bases.

This plaid dress has many different types of stretch fabric:

  • skirt plaid – scuba knit
  • top plaid – brushed poly
  • red and black – ponte, though different weights and stretch
  • black skirt lining – athletic mesh

So yeah.  The seams didn’t exactly match up as well as I am used to with this pattern maker.  As no one else mentioned the issues I had (which really weren’t many), I can attribute it to the different stretches and weights of fabric I used.

The instructions worked well for attaching everything together.  It is a really cute look!  Make sure to mark the armbands from the pattern, so they all match up at the same spot.  There are reasons for pattern markings.

Then there was the big decision of gold or silver grommets.

I ended up going with gold, and made a cording out of red knit jersey fabric.  Now that I have a tube turner that works, I love using it!  I did not have the correct size grommet setter, though.  I ruined the first waistband, and had to cut another off grain with the remnants of the black I had left.

As for the cording, in the instructions she has you put the cording in at the end.  I knew it would be a huge pain to get it through the holes (though I think I do have a bodkin…somewhere).  I added the cording before sewing the waistband to the skirt, so it was already sandwiched in there.   I just had to make sure it wasn’t near the seam when I was serging it together.

Inside of the dress:

This was the second dress I made.  These dresses are good to use up smaller cuts of fabric you may have laying around.  I had used both of these for clothes for myself, and used up much of the rest of it for this dress.

Fabrics:

  • Flowers – This is a stretch woven that has a nice satin sheen on it.
  • Matte Grey – This is a performance knit
  • Shiny Grey (skirt lining) – An athletic mesh
  • Navy – Rib knit

They worked pretty well together.  I had to piece the back, since I didn’t have enough to cut two skirts on the fold.  When sewing together two fabrics with different stretches, always put the one with the lower stretch on top or else the stitching goes off.  This dress is sewed a lot on the sewing machine, so that is pretty important.

The design on the top part of the dress is two layered vinyl designs in green and a holographic silver.  I purchased the vinyl from Espressions Vinyl.  The designs are my own.

The only issue I really have, design wise is the open pocket on the skirt.  I think on the smaller sizes it works pretty well, but on the larger sizes, you end up having a huge open pocket for the skirt.  It is the entire skirt front.  I mean it works great if you are collecting seashells, picking apples or harvesting veggies, but otherwise…seems a bit excessive.  I understand why she designed it like this – for a cleaner look on the front and no pocket lines showing through.  I just think that what works for littler ones, doesn’t necessarily work the best for someone over 5 ft tall.

So just an  FYI on that.  Overall, seriously cute little summer dress.

When I took the first plaid dress to the Girl to get fit pictures, she was in the process of giving me the tween eyeroll for disturbing her.  She took one look at the dress and deadpanned.

“You like it don’t you??”

“Yessssssss.”

There was much looking in the mirror when she tried it on.

A winner!


Details on the pattern release:

– sale will run from Saturday 00.00 to Monday 00.00 CET (6pm. est)
– Sale price is €5 exl tax (€6,05 incl. eu tax)
– Links:
EN pattern- http://www.sofilantjes.com/…/mantica-tunic-and-dress-pdf-en/

NL patroon- http://www.sofilantjes.com/p…/mantica-tuniek-en-jurk-pdf-nl/

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The Blixen Blazer

It has been awhile since I made a blazer, and Wardrobe by Me was going into testing for one.  The timing was less than ideal.  I had already committed to doing some sample sewing and another test, and then I had a funeral.  I was soooooo very glad when I got this finished.

It turned out very nice, though, so that was my carrot for the trial of accomplishing this pattern.  It took the majority of one week’s sewing.  There are a lot of pieces to cut out, interface and mark/baste stitch/notch.  Luckily it was drafted well, so everything went together nicely.

Blixen Blazer

I did do a few things that made it more difficult:

  • Leather welts and collar
  • Thin, slippery satin lining
  • Non-stretch interfacing

So…don’t do that.  For the first one you make at least.  There were also testers that had issues using scuba knit, since it really didn’t iron flat.  I would not recommend that type of knit.  This was a pretty sturdy ponte knit, and it ironed very well.  The thin, slippery satin lining was the devil’s handmaiden, though.  It acted like I cut it all on the bias.  It suuuuuuuucked.

This blazer looks and feels expensive, and I am very happy with the outcome.

I made a size 12 with no alternations.

There were some changes after this version.  The back notches for the sleeve were not in the right spot, so I had to really iron out some puckers.  In the final version she had them placed correctly.  Mine was made worse, as I did not use a stretch interfacing.  I didn’t have enough tricot interfacing to do the jacket.  I should have ordered more, but this test came up sooner than I thought it would.

This is the peplum back.  If you want it more full, it would be fairly easy to just slash and spread this piece and the lining piece to get a fuller back.

Lots of nice tailoring in this.  The notched collar and back darts.

The front piece has the dart and welt in a combined piece.  The pieces all went together very well.  Christina does a good job at drafting.

I put my buttonhole in wrong.  It should be a horizontal and not vertical hole.  I should have remembered that, but it was the LAST THING I needed to do.  I honestly was so excited I was just about finished.

I think it would be fairly workable to use zippers in the place of the welts, too.  You would just use the interfacing piece to make the pocket facing and the sew the zippers to that piece or a narrow seam around the opening.  That would look pretty nice and modern.

This is the “bane of my existence” lining.  A pretty satin.

Taking photos for this was a challenge due to the angle of the sun.  I also did some cloning on the ground where our mulch needs to get raked back up a bit.  Looks like the kids have some yard work to do! 😉

I love the details with the leather collar and welt pockets, but they do make it more of a challenge.  I used wondertape to hold it in place and also clips instead of pins.  I am actually using my clips a lot more than pins these days.  Makes it a bit faster and I can’t try to sew over them!

If you don’t have shoulder pads on hand, just use some quilt batting.  That is what I usually do now.  It gives it some form, but it still forms well to your body.

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Details on the pattern release sale:

Blixen Blazer on sale for one week for $12 (reg. $15)

 

Oh, and I made my shirt, too, but I will post about that later.  It is hard to get pictures of white shirts.  It actually has an interesting detail on it that really doesn’t show up in these photos.

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Sylva top and tunic

Another test for Sofilantjes patterns!  I like her style of clothes for kids, since they are on trend and comfy.  I still have a few more sizes she can wear in these before she graduates out of them.  They go up to a size 14, and right now she is a 10W and 13L.

Sylva Top and Tunic by Sofilantjes

 

I tested the short-sleeved tunic with the v-neck on the front and back.  This is an interesting design feature.  When I get some more time, I have plans to make the top out of some fun fabric that I have waiting.

There are also options for a piece long sleeve, a placket front and a hood.  It is a pretty versatile pattern!

This is the 10W and 13L.  She was in between sizes for length, so I went with the longer side.  She is growing.  She’s actually wearing my size 8 shoes now, so poor thing is going to have some big feet if she doesn’t stop soon!

This is about the last of this fabric.  I made her a dress out of it a few years ago.

Okay, several years ago…

I modified it, so it fit her longer, but she still doesn’t wear dresses much at all.  Tunics are her thing these days.

This color is so pretty on her, too.

We took these out in our lovely brown backyard.  It was a dismal year for snow, so we are crossing our fingers for an early spring!

Sale details:
– sale will run from Friday 00.00 to Sunday 00.00 CET (6pm. est)
– Sale price is €5 exl tax (€6,05 incl. eu tax)

One last picture of someone overacting for the camera. 😉  I had made her SO MUCH clothes in the last few weeks that she was losing patience with getting pictures.  First world problems for this kid…geez!


I am going to start on summer sewing for her now.  She has PLENTY of winter stuff to wear at this point, and she mostly needs bottoms.

My main plan is summer skorts, since she seems to like the ones I made her in the past.  I will probably use the base from the volleyball shorts I made for her.  I sewed up 4 new pairs for her before the season started.  Love being able to sew them up for much cheaper than I could buy them (they go for $20-$35 each)!

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