Flouncey Tunic Tutorial

I wanted to make a nice neutral tunic top, so of course, I went over the top with the details.  As I was cutting it out I was wondering if I should have made a different neckline, but I really like how cozy this is with the funnel cowl on it.

Details:

Pattern used for this pattern hack:  Wardrobe by Me Basic Builder Shirt, boat neckline.

Fabric is the Dark Shadow color of Bamboo lycra jersey from Nature’s Fabrics.

Added to the pattern (I did a size 14):

How to make:

The additional pieces that need to be cut are the flounce, band and cowl.  The measurements I used for the band and cowl are noted above and the flounce pattern piece is linked.  There is a 1″ overlap on the two pages for the flounce.

Steps:

  1.  Cut the circle flounces and connect them together on one end.

2.  Lay the front pieces down with right sides out.  Put the flounces against the edges and make sure not to stretch them out.  I also made sure once they were laid out that they matched around the front and back neckline.  They did.  Next, you sandwich the flounces between the shirt fronts, right sides together and sew up to the edge.

3.  Sew the shoulders together.

4.  Place the flounce around the neckline.  You might have to let the seam out a little bit where the sewing ended on the neckline to get it to lay flat.

5. Sew up the long seam on the cowl and make sure the ending edge has the seam locked so it won’t come undone.  Now, add this to the neckline, with the seam on the outside.  This will be rolled down, so if you have the seam on the inside, it will show.  Sew up the neckline seam with the cowl and flounce attached.

6.  Sew the arms on, sew up the side seam and hem the sleeves.

 

7.  Sew up the side seam of the bottom band.  Fold in half and mark the 1/4 points.  Place the flounce bottom edges against the hemline and then attach the band, placing the 1/4 marks at the side seams, mid front and back.  Sew up the seam.

All done!

Cup of Joe

Starting the blogging year off with my last strike-off of 2017, for a round opening today at Moonbeam Textiles.  The round is called Fantastic Creatures and it featured this adorable coffee drinking unicorn.  Luckily Kris gave us enough time to get these sewn up, as December was just crazy busy.

No outside pictures of these…it is arctic cold outside now!

She likes a very creamer-laden coffee occasionally, and she is definitely not a morning person.  Who doesn’t think coffee is magical?? 😉

I used various knits on this pattern that I drafted.  I have a loose fitting top I drafted for her last month, so I traced a copy of it and cut it apart to have this style.  All seams are topstitched so they lay flat.

I asked for an adult panel of the print, as it gives you a bit more fabric to work with.  This is a fat half of fabric.

She was pretty happy with this comfy outfit.  The black and white supplex was from Zenith & Quasar Fabric and the black is a bamboo jersey from Nature’s Fabrics.

The pants are a nice comfy sport polar fleece.  I bought it several years back, and I think it was something like Nike brand.  It is really nice and thick, and it should not pill at all.  It should wear very well.  Pattern is my own.

I actually thought they would be several inches too long for her, but they were just about right!

This round is open from January 1-15, so go check out the cute creatures. 🙂

My Grecian Goddess dress

In the interest of cleaning up some old posts in my blog, I bring you a pattern test that got dropped this summer.  It fit some of the ladies, but overall it was hard to get it right.  It wasn’t the easiest pattern to make with all those gathers in knit materials.

I wasn’t sure if this style of dress would look okay on my figure, since it has a fitted waist. I tend to gain weight at my waist, so I try to stay away from these styles. I do really like how it turned out, though. You needed a fabric with a good drape to it. My fabric is a poly knit and was a Calvin Klein fabric. It was only 45″ wide, so it took a bit more yardage than it would have if it had been a normal 60″ knit width.  I had to go back to the fabric store for more.

It needed to be drapey, so fabric choice was pretty important.  I would not use a cotton lycra for something like this.  A jersey, ITY, thinner bamboo jersey or a viscose is best.  I think this was a viscose knit.  It was basically labeled as Calvin Klein knit.  They don’t label well, pretty much…ever.

I added micro mesh between the waist pieces.  This added a bit of tightening and kept it in place better.  When you are a rectangle there really isn’t much for hips to keep things in place.  I also sandwiched the top part of the waistband pieces with the top pieces, which wasn’t how it was in the instructions.  I like to enclose all seams if I can.

Overall, this was a very cute dress, so it’s a bummer she dropped it.  This style fit some body types better than others.  Keeping the knit gathers even was the hardest part.  I gathered mine on the serger, which gave the seam some stability when attaching to the ungathered pieces.  Probably not a beginner pattern, but still plenty worth the effort.

 

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2018 Plans

Was it just me, or did 2017 just fly by like a bat out of hell?

Our 2017 started out with our son puking all over the place, and it is ending with my Grandma Jo breaking her other arm and my girl needing knee surgery for a meniscus tear.  Throw in several funerals, and that pretty much sums up how 2017 went.

I’m not sure if I sewed so much last year due to just wanting not to deal with all the stress of everything or what.  I do think it was my outlet, and the one thing I could control.  I got a little cranky if I didn’t get time to sew.

I  managed to make a crap ton of stuff.  I made in excess of 150 items last year for me, the kids, and some lucky friends and family.

I would like to be a bit more focused this year, though, which will likely mean that I don’t volunteer for every strike off opportunity that rears it’s head.  I got stressed out from that last year, since they all seemed to come at once.  There were a few items that I made last year that were just not my personal style.  That is a bit of a waste of my time and fabric.

I also bought quite a bit of custom and regular fabric last year, and I really need to reign myself in this year.  I don’t really need much additional fabric after all of that.  Yes, yet again I can’t fit all my fabric on my shelves.  I need to find a place to get rid of my scraps and small cuts that are taking up shelf space.

What a mess.

I have joined a few Facebook groups for sewing next year, but if I don’t manage to sew along with them it won’t be a terrible underachievement. I think it is safe to say I can sew a lot when presented with the opportunity.  I would guess there were a good 20+ items I sewed up last year that didn’t make the blog.  I pushed the girl child to model a lot this year, so when I didn’t make strike-off related stuff that didn’t need professional pics…I didn’t bother.  You only wanted to poke the beast (tween-ager) so many times. 😉

I have this grand plan that I am going to cut up a bunch of stuff at once and then sew when I have time.  Of course, that is after the to-do list that I have waiting for me.  Grandma Jo and the girl will need some special items made for them with their upcoming surgeries to help them out.

I’d also like to focus on making some more detailed patterns, and working the kinks out of some existing ones.  I will be losing my job at the end of 2018, so I will finally have some time to learn drafting software.

Yay…I guess. 

I have started putting together a portfolio of past work that I would like to make patterns for them.   I think I have designed some fairly unique pieces.

I would also like to get my loom set up and do some more loom beading.  Maybe on a purse handle…or something like that.  I have been itching to work on that again.

So, in brief…TLDR;)

  • Stop buying so much fabric
  • Be more purposeful in sewing and don’t volunteer to sew stuff that won’t get worn.
  • Start putting together sewing portfolio of unique items to perhaps maybe draft and grade
  • Get that loom out and strung

Hope everyone had a great holiday and will have a happy and prosperous New Year!

Rays

I was excited to get this fabric, since the Manta Rays from the movie, Moana, were so pretty.  When I got the 2 yards, they were 2 SEPARATE yards, so not a continuous cut at $26/yard (pre-order price even).  That’s kind of spendy to not get what you ordered.

Not real happy.

She did say I could contact her for a 10% discount on my next order, which, yeah…there probably won’t be a next order if this is an expectation.  Everyone in my house is over 5′ tall by several inches, so I can’t get away with just one yard of fabric for leggings.  I had to piece her leggings to get them to work for her height.  I could have just purchased one yard of it, since I have the other yard leftover now.  I was able to get the bottom part of the legs from the extra leftover on the side of the 1 yard.

My next challenge is that girl is apparently cold at school.  I purchased this bamboo fleece, and it matched fairly well.  The pattern for the top is my own, and the artwork I snagged off a google search.  They are tattoo designs, that I modified a  little bit to better be able to weed them.

I did a fold over cowl thing at the neckline.  I basically just cut it to length and overlapped it at the V-neck.

She was pretty happy with the outfit, though she didn’t notice the shark in the manta ray until I pointed it.  She had worn it all day long at that point.  She’s my shark lover!

Now to try to get some last minute holiday makes finished up!

Prince in purple

Seems a bit ubiquitous to do purple, now doesn’t it?  😉

This is the new round up at Fabric Anthropology with famous musician’s that have passed, in addition to some Pride prints celebrating acceptance.

I sewed up the Prince panel, with plans to get over to Paisley Park to get some photos of it in the background.  Then, it snowed and turned rather chilly, so my resolve was a bit dimmed.

But, I did it dang it!  I stood out there in the 20 degree weather with a wind chill and light snow.

I did get a few flats beforehand, though…

These were the initial photos I got of the tunic, which was self-drafted.  It has a hood that overlaps at the neckline, side cuts and bishop sleeves.  Next version will have a lower front neckline, more foldover of the hood bottom and a higher back neckline.  This was my initial draft.  Always something to fix.

It was also a bit tighter than I wanted it to be, which is partly due to the ponte mixed with cotton lycra.  Ponte doesn’t have as much stretch.

The fabrics include the panel, which has a coordinating musical bird print on the other side, a black ponte and a white poly.

I love how it turned out!  The legging fabric matches pretty well, too.  This is my own fabric design on sport lycra from Spoonflower.

The hood is a little longer than I think it should be.  I will make that adjustment next time, too.

If you want to see all the prints in this order, go to Fabric Anthropology.  The pre-order will be open through December 15.

November, October, September…August? wrap up…

I was doing really well with doing those monthly wrap ups, and then got all behind!  Because I got busy!

So, here is what I finished for August, September, October and November.  These are most of them, anyways.  Might be missing a few.

August:

September:

October:

November:

Whew!  As of the end of November, I have made around 150 items this year!  A bit outrageous, but I have gained some weight, so I have many pieces of clothing that don’t fit me right now (sad face).  I do need to spend more time on my elliptical to try to lose a good 10 lbs, but finding a time that the exercise room is not in use is proving challenging.  Hubs and boy child are using it more, so I would need to wake up early to get in line.  I’m very much not a morning person.

Anyways, I also finally got the holster done for my friend, too!  Yay…got that sucker off the To Make list.  This is just the cell phone picture I sent him, and he liked it. 🙂  Need to get better pics of it, though.

My plans for December are already filling up.  This weekend I have several things I need to get finished.

  • A strike off that came in the mail yesterday.  The round opened yesterday.  Yeah, not great timing on that.
  • Barbie bags for presents to go off to the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation.  My girl had a ton of barely played with Barbies with some really pretty dresses my niece got them.  I had her go through and pick out ones to give away with a few outfits for each.  Now I just need to make them a bag for each one and wrap them up for gifts.  I need to get them sent out next week, so I have to get on it!
  • I am hosting a Christmas party for friends and we exchange gifts.   I need to make something for a gift for that, since I like to do that.  Maybe a clutch?  I don’t know yet.  I do have a few things I purchased that I can use for the gift if I don’t have time, at least.

After that, I don’t have too much I need to get done.   I will have the week between Christmas and New Year’s off, so I might do some tutorials and some new patterns I’d like to draft.

December is usually so crowded with events that I know I won’t have a lot of free time before the end of the month.  I always look forward to that week off.  Who knows…I might actually relax and read some books during that time.  They are all piling up on my Nook!

AC III hoodie

The boy is one of those lucky kids who has a December birthday (I am, as well), so he gets many gifts and being a teen it is harder and harder to figure out what to get him other than an Xbox giftcard.

I ran across this book at Barnes and Noble, so I got that for him and then decided he would get an awesome AC III inspired hoodie to go with it.

So…

I started looking at Pinterest and all the cool AC inspired hoodies that are pinned over there.  I didn’t want one that was too overt with tails and epaulets and all.  I decided to use the Herbert Hoodie by Wardrobe by Me for the base.  This is a looser fitting hoodie, so all the seaming in the back shouldn’t be annoying.

I also made my very first You Tube video for the project, so if you want to hear my voice and see my sewing room, check it out.  I took the video about 5 times before I got a version I liked.  I finally had to lock the cat out of my room since he figured it was petting time and was being annoying. 😉

This is all the pieces cut out of bamboo fleece from Nature’s Fabrics.

I didn’t buy enough of the blue…only a half yard…so a few things are cut across the grain.  I would have cut the back “A” on the fold if I had purchased a yard.  It was taller than 18″.

The back required a lot of basting stitches before serging.  When sewing the curves and the angles you have to be pretty precise, so just taking it to the serger and going for it is just not recommended.

How I approached these seams, was putting them next to each other prior to pinning and marking where they met up with some chalk.  This just takes the place of putting notches in the fabric, and it really helped to line up the curves correctly.

The points in the fabric were done similar to doing  a V-neck.  You clip the inside point to the seam allowance and then sew each side of the triangle point separately to the edge right up to the clipped line.  You don’t sew right up to the edge of the point, but leave a seam allowance width.

After I sewed the basting stitches I went over them with the serger.  There were a few places were the serger messed up, so I had to seam rip in a few places.  I then ironed down all the seams and top-stitched.

I drew the thunderbird that matches the hood design for the character.  Let’s just ignore the fact that I forgot to mirror it and it is facing the wrong direction.   Story of my life.  I need to put a sticker that says “Did you mirror??” on my machine where I load the mat.

The AC logo is actually in pieces since I was just using what I had for vinyl.  I think I need to buy more vinyl.

The hood is put together by first attaching the triangles, and then attaching the sides.  I put some interfacing at the point, and then did a long straight stitch seam on either side of the point before serging the rest of the seam.  Clip the point, turn right sides out, and then attach to the hood body.

The rest of the creation was pretty standard.

  • Sew the shoulders together, matching up to the blue/cream seam separations.
  • Attach the hood, with about a 1.5″ overlap.
  • Attach the arms
  • Sew the side seams
  • Sew up the sides of the wrist and waist bands, fold over and attach to the ends of the arms and at the body waist.

Done!

Sorry I didn’t get a lot of pictures in making this thing, but keep in mind that I couldn’t take pictures of Everything or it would have taken me forever and a day.  When I was putting the back together I got in a groove and forgot to get pictures.  I didn’t have a lot of time since I waited until the last minute to get this done (again).  The main points in making this, is that you need to baste stitch, serge, then topstitch those seams.  Otherwise, it will be a hot mess inside.

Now I just need to wrap it up for his birthday tomorrow!  I’ll edit this post with pictures of him wearing it when I get pictures. 🙂

Edit: Worn pics…he loved it! 🙂

Posh Top

This is such a cute top!

Releasing today is the George and Ginger Posh Top.  I made a size 14 tween for the girl out of cotton lycra from Fabric Anthropology.  Kristi did shorten the pattern a few inches after this version, but otherwise the fit is the same on the final.

It has these big sleeves that are just so cute.

The shoulders are pieced with a bias strip in between.  You can dress that up by adding some buttons to them (I didn’t).  It is meant to look like there is a closure there.

I told her she looked very cute in the top and skirt and that she should wear it to school like this.  Apparently this is way too much for middle school!

Kristi is currently having a sitewide sale for George & Ginger’s 2 year anniversary. For 24 hours only, save 25% sitewide, including the new Posh Top! Sale ends Saturday at 8:00 am CST. Use code: YEARTWO at checkout.

Little bag

On Saturday night we were going to go to a concert to see A Perfect Circle, so I wanted to get a small bag finished up to carry my phone and wallet.  I had been meaning to make something like this for awhile now, and am pretty happy with how it turned out.

I made this pretty quickly…a little over two hours.  I started out with a pattern I had made previously for the main body, and then added the expander pieces and top pocket.

This is made from two different lambskin leathers, with some places using a woven iron on interfacing.  Lambskin is pretty flimsy when it comes to leather, so a few places I doubled it up.

I used black suede on the underside of the front flap and along the edges to give the pockets more room.

The back:

The strap is a woven strapping that I had laying around.  I keep straps that get unused, so I can used the hardware and/or just the strap itself.  This is adjustable, so I could also put it on my waist if I wanted.  I used it as more of a cross body bag that night, and it is small and unobtrusive.

The front clasp keeps coming undone, so I need to figure out something for that.  It also shifts to the side a bit and the opening is too floppy, so I think I will tack the pocket down near the top of the opening.  That should be fun since it is all put together now.

Edit: I figured out what was wrong with the clasp…the top piece was upside down.  I pulled the rivets apart with a pliars and took it apart to move it around.  It works great now!

I am thinking of making another and doing a tutorial on it.  We’ll see when I get that done!